Finding a bra with the perfect fit can feel like searching for a needle in a haystack. As professional fitters, we have a few tricks up our straps to know when a bra is the best for your bosoms. Using these six tips will help you adjust your own bra to get that perfect fit!

 

1. Gore

The gore is located in the center where the two underwires. In this illustration, the gore isn’t laying flat and separating this gal’s gals. There’s a lot of cleavage going on which means this bra isn't fitting correctly. If you look at the underwires in the front, you can see how they’re literally laying on top of her breasts. Having metal wires poking your breast tissue can be really uncomfortable and comfort is key!

To fix this problem, you need to go up a cup size or two until the gore lies against your skin and separates your breasts.

2. Top Cup

When the cup size is too small, you will get the dreaded “double boob” coming out of the top of the cup. There’s not enough space for the breast, so the breast is pushed out of the bra. The bra presses into the top part of the breast, showing a defined bra line underneath clothing.

To fix this problem, you go up a cup size or two until you the cup lies flush with the breast.

3. Bottom Cup

When the gore isn’t laying flat between the breasts and double boob is happening at the top of the cup, most of the time boob will come out of the bottom of the bra when arms are lifted. The bottom of the cup should lay flat against the skin. If the bottom part of the bra is being lifted away from the breast or skin, this means the cup size is too small. There should be a little bit of space between the underwire and breast tissue to ensure that the cup is completely encasing the breast, so it doesn't fall out of the bottom. *Tip* Take your hand and scoop and lift your breast into the cup to make sure the breast is in the right position. You may need to take your cups and shake the breasts back into the bra if you're coming out of the top after scooping and lifting. 

To fix this problem of falling out of the bottom of your bra, you go up a cup size or two until you feel like the bottom part of your bra is laying flat against your skin and you're not falling out of the bottom when you move. Ideally, you want a finger width of space between your breast and underwire.

4. Sides

Did you know there is a lot of breast tissue located on each side by the armpit? In the illustration, a large portion of her side breast isn’t being covered up by the bra and looks like it's hanging out over the sides. When this happens, the underwires on the side are laying on top of the breasts, which is really uncomfortable.  *Tip* Make sure to move your arms back and forth while fitting the bra. If you feel like the bra is chaffing in your armpit area, that's not good and you'll want to go down a cup size. 

To fix this problem, go up a cup size to ensure you're getting enough coverage on the side of your breasts.

5. Band

See how the band is riding high in the back?This means the band is too big and not supportive enough. Did you know the band is where 95% of breast support comes from? Bras are like teeter totters on a playground. The higher the band is in the back, the lower the breasts will be in the front. The lower the band is in the back, the higher the breasts will be in the front. The band should lie in the middle to lower part of the back where the dotted line is shown. Putting the weight of breasts on the back instead of shoulders can help alleviate shoulder and neck pain.

To fix this problem, go down a band size or two until the band fits low and snug on your back on the loosest set of hooks. 

6. Straps

The larger the band size, the more wide-set the straps are placed in the back of the bra to accommodate larger body types. The smaller the band size, the more narrow-set the straps are placed in the back of the bra to accommodate petite frames. For correct fitting straps, try to slide two fingers underneath the strap and have a hard time moving them around. If you can move your fingers around easily, they need tightened. Remember, the support comes from the band, not the straps.

To fix this problem: If your straps feel like they’re constantly falling off your shoulders this means your band size is too big and you need to go down a band size or two until the band is fitting low and snug on your back on the loosest set of hooks. Then adjust the straps to the two-finger rule.

Hopefully, this clears up the confusion on how bras should and shouldn’t fit. If you have any questions, please contact us or book an in-person fitting today!

August 25, 2013 — Courtney Killpack